“It feels like we shouldn’t be allowed to do this,” my cousin Hunter says to me as we’re riding up Lift 10 at Telluride Ski Resort. He’s talking about skiing through the most idyllic ski town and stunning mountains I’ve ever seen (to be fair, I’ve only ever been to this ski resort, but others have agreed that this is one of the best around). I nod in agreement despite the freezing nine degree wind and snow flurries hitting my face. Hunter and I can’t stop talking about the landscapes, views, and culture of this place– and this isn’t even our first time being here.
I first came to Telluride, Colorado in January 2022. It was my first time in any ski town and my first time learning to ski. My cousins Hunter and Kaleb, and my Aunt Jerri and Uncle Dane are my guides and ski instructors in Telluride, and taught me to “shred the gnar” during my first visit. They’re experienced skiers who have been to many ski resorts in the U.S. including Taos and Angel Fire resorts in New Mexico, Alta, Park City, Deer Valley and Snowbird resorts in Utah, and Heavenly Lake Tahoe in California, yet they agree that Telluride may be the most iconic of all the places they’ve skied. And it’s not just the views that make Telluride special. While the photos and videos of this place are stunning, these simply do not do this place justice. Here’s your guide to all-things Telluride, and why Telluride has so much to offer than views for your next summer or winter vacation.
Quick note: When I refer to visiting “Telluride” it technically refers to two parts of this ski town. I’m technically staying in what’s known as “Mountain Village” or “new town” Telluride, on the West Side of the Mountain. This year, we were coincidentally visiting during the 50 year anniversary celebrations of Telluride Ski Resort, but well before there was a ski resort here, the village of “Old Town Telluride” thrived on the East side of the Mountain.
History
The original “Old Town” Telluride was discovered in 1765 by a group of Spanish explorers, even before the 13 U.S. Colonies were formed. It is thought that the Spanish were driven out by the Utes, a Native American tribe, who owned and governed this land until they were forced to sign an agreement with the U.S. Government in 1873. The gold rush struck (no pun intended) this town in 1875, and giving it it’s name “Telluride,” a name for rich gold ore with precious metals, when a prospector mistook a rock sample for this valuable substance (source: https://westernmininghistory.com/towns/colorado/telluride/).
The 1970s was the last of mining in Telluride, and the city rebranded as a ski town, bringing us the lively culture, fresh-powder slopes, and stunning views that keep people coming back today. Now, Old Town Telluride is around five blocks wide and occupies an area of 2.22 square miles, with less than 3,000 permanent residents. Mountain Village occupies an area of 3.3 square miles and boasts almost 1,300 permanent residents. To make this resort even more appealing, a free gondola connects these two cities across the mountains (but more on that to come!).
Accommodations
Both times I’ve been to Telluride, my family has rented a ski-in, ski-out condo in Mountain Village (think “new town” Telluride). “Ski-in, ski-out” refers to the ability to ski to and from your accommodation. These properties are generally located in a base area village or mid-mountain with direct access to the slopes. We stayed at the Emerald Elk #7 at Village Creek, a property booked through AvantStay.com. The downstairs of this property contains ski lockers included with your rental. Once we were dressed in our ski gear and boots, we could simply carry our skis and poles outside to the back of the property and ski down to the lifts at the bottom of the hill. Getting back up to the property is a little trickier and requires walking up a 10-15 foot hill (easier said than done when you’re tired and weighed down by ski gear).
Otherwise, this property has been fantastic, with three bedrooms, three bathrooms, six beds, and room for 10 guests (I honestly think it could sleep many more than that based on the size). This property also offered outward-facing views of the mountains, multiple balconies for guests to enjoy, an indoor fireplace (one of my favorite amenities) and is conveniently located close to the center of Mountain Village, offering access to the slopes, ski rental shop, coffee shops, Mountain Village bars and restaurants, and free gondolas to take you over to old-town Telluride or the grocery story in Mountain Village.
Accommodation tip: A private ski-in, ski-out property is convenient for those larger, ski-forward groups but these types of properties can be around 15% more expensive than other properties in a ski village (source: When Is Ski-In/Ski-Out Lodging Worth the Money?). When booking your ski accommodation, you should consider more factors than whether or not a property is a ski-in, ski-out accommodation. Some residences higher in the mountain may be convenient for hitting the slopes, but require a drive or long walk to make it to the downtown area of a ski town, making dinner, shopping, and other activities less convenient.
I would also add that booking at a resort in a ski town could be a good option. Resorts like The Peaks in Mountain Village have an included ski valet service where their hospitality team will handle the set up and storage of your skis. The kind of convenience is pricey but could be worth it to some ski or snowboard fanatics who don’t enjoy having to lug around and store their ski equipment after a long day on the slopes.
Transportation
To & From Telluride
The trip into Telluride is a little tricky. If you have $10,000 to spare to charter a private jet into Telluride, you can fly directly into the Telluride Regional Airport (If you can do this, congratulations, and I want to be friends!). For the rest of us, the next best option is to fly into Montrose, Colorado, around an hour and twenty minute drive from Old Town Telluride. My family rented a large SUV to transport us all from the Montrose Airport to Mountain Village and back. It does the trick, but renting a large vehicle can be expensive. I’ve also found that once we’re at the condo, we don’t use the car anymore, meaning we’re essentially paying for a week’s rental for two trips in the car.
Telluride also offers one way shuttle accommodation that can transfer you to and from the airport. This could be a more cost effective but less convenient option for some, who may prefer to purchase and pickup their groceries outside of Mountain Village, where the prices can be steep.
Within Telluride
Finally! It’s time to talk about the Telluride Gondola, a personal favorite amenity of mine. The Telluride Gondola is the first and only free public transportation of its kind in the U.S.. The gondola links Old Town and Mountain Village with a short 13 minute ride through the stunningly scenic San Juan Mountains and is a convenient way to travel across this idyllic ski town when walking is out of the question. When considering a stay in Mountain Village or Telluride, I would consider booking an accommodation close to the gondola, which grants easy access to travel across the town.
Skiing & Snowboarding
Last week I was checking The Daily e-newsletter from Condé Nast Traveler, a renowned luxury lifestyle and travel magazine, when I saw an article about the best ski resorts to visit in America. Naturally, I clicked on it and Telluride Ski Resort was listed, unsurprising considering it was voted #1 Ski Resort in 2018 and several years before that.
My first trip to Telluride was my first trip skiing, the same for eight-year old cousin Jonah. Jonah went to a half-day of Telluride Ski School, allowing him to easily zip past me and several other experienced skiers in our party down the easy slopes.
Regardless of your experience level and interest with skiing and snowboarding, there are dozens of trails across the mountain for every need. Here’s the breakdown of the trails at Telluride, According to their website:
- Advanced/Expert Skiing and Snowboarding (41%)
- Intermediate Skiing and Snowboarding (36%)
- Beginner Skiing and Snowboarding (23%)
It’s worth checking out the mountain maps to get a better sense of which lifts to take depending on your experience levels and location on the mountain. I’ve also found that the ski staff are friendly and willing to help (just like every hospitality employee here!) So if you’re lost or need advice, ask your nearest lifty! My personal favorites as a beginner skier include double green runs Grouse Glade, Bridges, Village Bypass, and Galloping Goose, and blue runs Enchanted Forest, See Forever, Polar Queen and Marmot. Truthfully, you can’t go wrong in which trails you take. Explore the mountain and you’ll be greeted by captivating scenery at every turn you take.
Telluride Food Guide
I’ll be honest, if you’re a foodie like me and you’re lucky enough to visit Telluride, you’ll be hard pressed to find food that you don’t like. Here’s a list of my favorite food spots and the delicious foods I had at each during this trip:
High Pie Pizzeria and Tap Room
What to order…
Food:
- Beer Buddy (giant soft pretzel with mustard and cheese dipping sauce)
- Tree Run Pizza
- Sundance Pizza
Drinks:
- Berry Noir Sour beer (highly drinkable)
Other notes/comments:
- This pizza spot is a more loud and fun environment with great food and no reservation needed. Even if you’re not too hungry, drop in for a pitcher of locally-made sour beer and don’t skip the Beer Buddy pretzel.
What to order…
Food:
- Blue Grouse Bread
- Beef Carpaccio
- Brussel Sprouts
- Cauliflower Soup
- Filet with Fingerling Gratin
- Fresh Linguini & Manilla Clams
- Lemon & Apricot Confit Roasted Chicken
- Apple Tart with Vanilla Ice Cream
Drinks:
- Paloma Fizz + Tequila
- Pineapple Ginger Sparkler + Tequila
Other notes/comments:
- Yes, The National was so good that we went twice in this one trip. The National is a more formal environment and you will need reservations to attend. P.S. if any of your party can’t make the reservation, they will charge you for not attending (likely costing the same as dinner would’ve, aka $75/person who cancels) This practice is common here in Telluride, so only make a reservation at a more formal restaurant for the amount of people you’re certain are going.
What to order…
Food:
- Colorado Short Rib Poutine
- Mushroom Philly Burger
Drinks:
- Moscow Mule
Other notes/comments:
- This saloon is a more casual spot for good grub with no reservation required.Be sure to check out their Apres Ski menu, which offers “happy hour” style deals. Also, don’t skip out on poutine as a starter. It’s scrumptious.
Smuggler Union Restaurant and Brewery
What to order…
Food:
- Mushroom Toast
- Organic Mixed Greens salad
- Mama P’s Blackened Crawfish Mac and Cheese
- Avocado Grill with a Veggie Burger
Drinks:
- Any drink with Ginger Beer
Other notes/comments…
- When I say their ginger beer is a “must try,” I’m serious. You’ll be doing yourself a disservice if you show up without trying their house-made ginger beer. I personally had it as a Moscow Mule but their Kentucky Mules are great too for those of you who are bourbon lovers. Also, the website says that walk-ins are always welcome and there are limited reservations. My family decided to walk in around 5:30ish and had to wait around 45 minutes for a table, so I suggest making a reservation if possible.
What to order…
Food:
- Veggie Hash bowl
Drinks:
- Vanilla latte
Other notes/comments:
This place isn’t very large but we have no problem grabbing a table 45 minutes past opening. My research didn’t turn up many breakfast spots in Telluride but this seems to open the earliest of all the options, at 7 a.m.. I also thought that it was cute that they had a little sparrow bird that was hopping around eating the ice on the ground by the entrance. They had a sign displaying that said to leave her alone because she can get in and out as she likes.
What to order…
Food:
- Miso Soup starter
- Hamachi sashimi
- Sake Ikura sushi rolls
- Unagi Avocado sushi rolls
Drinks:
- Umi Collins cocktail
Other notes/comments:
We were able to make a last-minute reservation here after a local recommended we go. This restaurant has only been open since October 2022 and the sushi was incredible and so fresh (not sure how they do that with us being in a remote part of the mountains). This was a quiet, intimate place and I would consider it a “don’t-miss” restaurant in Telluride. It’s a little pricier, but worth it in my opinion.
Sadly, I didn’t get to eat at Alpino Vino but I feel it’s worth mentioning on this list. Alpino Vino is the highest elevation restaurant in North America at 11,966ft and the only way to get to their lunch tasting is by skiing into the restaurant from the See Forever trail at the top of the resort. It’s open from 11 a.m.- 3 p.m. for lunch during the winter and my cousin convinced me to brave this steep blue run to ski into this wine and cheese shop for some apres ski snacks to fuel up for the day. When we showed up around 12:30p.m the manager came out to talk to us and said that by 10:50 that morning, he had a line out the door, quickly filling the small patio space and the waitlist for the rest of the day. He told us that he recommends securing a spot by arriving right at or before opening, as there is limited seating. So if you’re looking to dine at this ski-only accessible spot for lunch, get there early to enjoy the artisanal wines, pasta, paninis, and antipasta at Alpino Vino. I will be putting this spot on my list to visit for next time, but all wasn’t lost, since See Forever was possibly my favorite and most heart-racing run of the entire trip.
Tips and tricks for Telluride
Here is a hodgepodge of general things I’ve learned on this trip that are interesting or can provide guidance for you planning your own trip to this incredible ski town:
- Get goggles: If you don’t already have them or are new to skiing, goggles make a huge difference on the slopes, allowing you to see better and not worry about your glasses slipping off.
- The first bank that Butch Cassidy ever robbed was the San Miguel Valley Bank in Telluride.
- Apres Ski Menus: “Apres ski” is French for “after skiing.” Many restaurants offer happy-hour style food and deals outside of prime lunch or dinner time to allow skiers (or anyone) to enjoy snacks, warm drinks, or a little meal. Many restaurants in Telluride don’t open until 5 p.m. but some offer Apres Ski menus before 5.
- Cheers: Part of the Wilson’s Peak Mountains, located in Telluride, are featured on the Coors Beer can.
- Famous neighbors: Oprah, Tom Cruise, Jerry Seinfeld, and Kevin Costner are all thought to have homes in the Telluride Mountains. My favorite game is guessing which celebrity owns which house while traveling up the ski lift.
A Final Review
Considering this is my second time in Telluride and I’ve traveled with my aunt and uncle who have been at least five times to this hidden gem, I can confidently assure you that Telluride has something for everyone that visits. We’ve also spent some time chatting with various locals who, one after the other, have assured us that a summer visit to Telluride is even more beautiful and enriching.
I truly think that Telluride is for anyone (who can afford it) who enjoys mountain air, delicious food, powder slopes, and incredible scenery. Skier or not, there are many activities to entertain you and your family during your visit to Telluride. And just to prove that I’m not alone in relishing the magic of this place, I asked my eight year old cousin Jonah what his favorite part of Telluride was:
“I love skiing here because I like to go fast and practice parallel turning. I also like family time because there’s a fire and we can eat together. My favorite pizza was from High Pie Pizzeria and Tap Room. The fries and the poutine were the best at FloraDora Saloon. There’s nothing I don’t like about Telluride.”
Traveling With Lola 
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