Traveling With Lola

Place your bets… Beginning April 1, Arkansas Derby Day is taking place at the historical Oaklawn RaceTrack and Casino, in Hot Springs Arkansas. This annual competition of thoroughbred racing is a stepping stone for premier racehorses to qualify for The Kentucky Derby, THE elite horse race event in the United States. 

Even outside of Derby season, Hot Springs has always held a special place in my heart. It’s my go-to spot for weekend trips from Central Arkansas, and is an often overlooked gem for food, culture, history, and absolute shenanigans. Considering this, it’s no surprise that Hot Springs is also the #1 city for tourism in the entire Natural State. If you’re heading to the Arkansas Derby this weekend or anytime, here are my suggestions for crafting your perfect long weekend in Spa City: 

Friday:

Morning
Rise and Shine! Head to the historic downtown to start your day with blueberry pancakes at The Pancake Shop, a popular down-home eatery since 1940. Pro tip: Arrive early to beat the crowd.

Afternoon 

With a full belly, head to the Hot Springs Mountain Tower overlook. Visitors can take an elevator to the top of this tower for panoramic views of Hot Springs and the surrounding Ouachita Mountains. After this, Rocky’s Corner is great for a casual lunch if you like Chicago Style pizza. This joint is right across from Oaklawn, so you can scope out where you’ll be hanging out tomorrow, the biggest day for live racing in Oaklawn’s season. 

Evening

After lunch, plan to visit Garvan Woodland Gardens for the sunset and evening. Explore this 210 botanical-garden and it’s in-season blooms and take some photos for Instagram while you’re at it. For dinner, check out The Ohio Club, Arkansas’ oldest bar and a historic restaurant offering delicious southern food, like sandwiches and entrees, as well as live music. It has a fun atmosphere and is a great spot to end the night. Head home after dinner and rest up for a long and fun day at Oaklawn tomorrow.

Saturday:

Morning

Buenos Dias! Today is the big day: Arkansas Derby Day at Oaklawn Resort. During live racing season, the Oaklawn horse races are held Friday through Sunday, with the first post at 12:30 p.m.. If you park in Oaklawn’s standard parking, it will cost you $5 but will be safe for your vehicle. 

Fuel up with breakfast at Phil’s Family Restaurant, an affordable joint just a few minutes walk from Oaklawn. I’d suggest parking early in Oaklawn’s parking lot on Central Avenue. Walk across the street to enjoy country breakfast and huge, fluffy pancakes.

Afternoon

The doors at Oaklawn open at 11am. Entry is free but brochures cost $3 in the Oaklawn office. I’d suggest making the purchase so you can see which horses are racing, and the racing program includes that stats for each and a ton of other information. There are also several tip sheet stands around the premises, all claiming to have information with the best chance of winning a bet. Truthfully, no one can ever predict which horse will win. Before each race, you have the opportunity to watch the horses being saddled in the paddock before the head to the track. My strategy is to watch the horses walk, pick the prettiest horse and bet $2 on the horse to show. (Please note: you must be 18 and up to place a bet and 21 and up to enter the casino.)

When you arrive at Oaklawn, walk around the facility, casino, and the inside of the track, which opens for nice weather during Derby Day and the people watching at Oaklawn is unmatched. Tickets are normally sold for the enclosed box seating at the top of the racetrack, which allots you a seat and higher views of the track. This year’s seats are sold out but no worries, there is free seating and standing room outside in front of the track and in the beer garden.

If you’re looking to enjoy an adult beverage, it’s worth noting that the drinks (especially beer) are much cheaper if you purchase it inside the casino. I’m talking drastically different prices, as in beers are $8+ outside the casino and there is $3 canned beer inside the ‘sino. (The broke college kid in me had to share this bargain.) Sadly, you cannot take drinks outside the casino but it’s great to pop into the casino for a quick crank at the slot machine and a drink between races, with posts every 30 minutes or so. 

There are several options for eating inside the track, including concession stands, restaurants, and to-go spots. For the cheapest options, consider getting a corned beef sandwich at one of the food stands or Big Al’s Diner for All-American all-day breakfast, lunch, or dinner. 

Evening

The Arkansas Derby race will be the last race of the day, taking place after 4 p.m. After you win big on the favorite horse, take your cash to the casino for the evening. The newly expanded, the state-of-the art Oaklawn casino offers live craps, live blackjack, popular slot games, and live sports-betting. It’s open 24-7 and offers live music in the Silks Bar and Grill until 2 a.m.. Try a lemon drop in the bar and you won’t regret it. For food to soak up the booze, walk out of the casino and head to The Bugler, upscale fine dining with scrumptious drinks. 

(Fun fact: I was an extra in several of the promotional videos and commercials shot at Oaklawn when I was an intern at CJRW in Summer of 2021. You may even spot me on the Oaklawn website if you look hard enough 😉)

Sunday:

Morning

Salutations! My guess is that you’re in need of a detox after your long day at Oaklawn. NO worries, that’s what Sunday is for after all. Today, we’re going back to the Historic Downtown Hot Springs. Head to The Colonial Pancake and Waffle House for a classic diner breakfast to soak up last night’s booze. 

Afternoon

Next, you’ll experience relaxation and how this town got its namesake: Bathhouse Row. 

This historic district is home to several of the city’s historic bathhouses, including the Buckstaff Bathhouse, the Fordyce Bathhouse, and the Quapaw Baths and Spa. Make an appointment for wherever you can get in, and enjoy a mineral bath + specialty massage. 

History side note: The bathhouses in Hot Springs, Arkansas have a long history dating back to the early 1800s, when the Native American tribes in the area used the hot springs for medicinal purposes. In the 1830s, the US government designated the area as a federal reservation, and in the late 1800s, the first bathhouses were built. By the early 1900s, several bathhouses lined Bathhouse Row, offering a variety of therapeutic services. 

During the early 20th century, when the bathhouses were at the height of their popularity, many people with illnesses, such as rheumatism, arthritis, and other chronic conditions, came to Hot Springs to seek relief from the hot springs’ healing properties. Some of the bathhouses even had specialized treatments for certain medical conditions. Many people who came to Hot Springs seeking relief ended up staying in the city for extended periods of time, sometimes for several months or even years. I also learned that it was this time that Hot Springs invited the first drive thru (of bodies). For more information, you’ll have to go on the Hot Springs ghost walking tour (see below). 

After your relaxing spa, take some time to walk on The Promenade, which includes the downtown strip of restaurants, shops, and other businesses, or there are paved trails you can explore on foot. There are even free springs and fountains where you can feel the steaming hot springs that bubble up from the earth. The Hot Springs Visitor Center can guide you for where to discover these gems. 

While you’re in the historic downtown, here are a few other suggested landmarks to experience: 

• Josephine Tussaud Wax Museum in Hot Springs features lifelike wax figures of historical and pop culture icons, from presidents to musicians to movie stars.
• The Gangster Museum of America showcases the history of organized crime in Hot Springs and the role the city played in the prohibition era.
• The Arlington Hotel is a historic landmark in Hot Springs and visitors can take a self-guided tour of the grand lobby and public spaces of the hotel.
• The Mountain Valley Spring Water Visitor Center tells the story of the famous Mountain Valley Spring Water, including its history and the bottling process. Visitors can also purchase the water on site.

When your stomach starts rumbling, check out the award winning Cafe 1217 for a refreshing and healthy lunch. 

Evening

No trip to Hot Springs is complete without a trip to the iconic McClards’s BBQ, a popular barbecue restaurant in Hot Springs, Arkansas, that has been in operation since 1928. Over the years, the restaurant gained a reputation for its delicious barbecue and unique sauce, and today is a popular destination for locals and tourists alike, serving up a variety of barbecue dishes, including ribs, pulled pork, and brisket, along with classic Southern sides like baked beans and coleslaw. The restaurant is decorated with memorabilia and photos of famous visitors, including former President Bill Clinton, who grew up in Hot Springs and has been a long time patron of the restaurant. Seriously– you need to eat here. Anything you order will be good but my personal favorite is the tamales.

If you’re no chicken, you’ll enjoy a Hot Springs Haunted Tour, beginning at 8 p.m.. Don’t worry, there are no jump scares on this tour and instead the 60-minute walking tour is packed with historical information about the city, complete with spooky sites, hauntings, murders, and ghost sightings. (This is also where you’ll learn about that drive thru I mentioned.) There is no reservation needed and tickets are sold 30 minutes before the tour begins at 430 Central Avenue.  

This itinerary should give you a good idea of the variety of activities available in Hot Springs during Arkansas Derby weekend. Don’t forget to leave some time for exploring the city on your own and discovering your own favorite spots (and always bet on the prettiest horse to win!) Happy racing!

Have you visited the historical Hot Springs? Did I miss anything that should be included as a must-do in this itinerary? Leave your suggestions and questions in the comments below!